Remember how in my last post, I said that ‘I may take breaks, but fashion doesn’t?’ Still true. But unfortunately, I fell at the last hurdle and was unable to keep up with blogging per day of the finale of the fashion weeks. 3rd year of uni with the likes of the dreaded dissertation called, I’m afraid.
I’m well aware, it has been reviewed enough and that the majority of people will know all sorts about the shows, models, trends and designs, but for my regular readers, I value and appreciate every one of you for supporting me and following my blog, so this synopsis of PFW is for you.
*N.B. ‘Look #’ refers to catwalk order, although my favourite piece is included in the photos I have selected*
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23 September – 1 October
Balenciaga
Personally, the main surprise for me was baby North West making her fashion week debut. The second surprise was at how well-behaved this little toddler was throughout the show. Props to baby West. Now for the show. Alexander Wang put his own stamp on the collection, as the Creative Director instigated an army of gorgeous girls walking down the runway (flashback to NYFW a few weeks earlier?)
There were elements of Matrix-esque pieces, with black being a dominating shade and chiffon, netting and floor-sweeping apparel being showcased on the catwalk. The sports luxe theme throughout the collection softened the tone, with mesh skirts, loose collars and pastel colours demonstrating to us that this trend is going to be around for some time.
My favourite piece? Look 19’s black layered Bardot top with chiffon sleeves. Ticks all the boxes for SS15.
Balmain
Another edgy designer and a favourite of mine. Previous collections have revealed metallics, studs…and this season does not let the term ‘power dressing’ down. In fact, it defines it even more. SS15 brought us a lot of graphic prints, with cage motifs, bright colours and definitive stripes. It was all fabulously fierce, but then again, it wouldn’t be Balmain, if it wasn’t.
Every look in the collection was strong. All-white outfits were sleek and structured, whilst other looks were buckled, zipped or laser-cut. Bold colours and sharp cut-outs proved that, in fashion, people still want to stand out against the rest. Even the draped, chiffon dresses at the end of the catwalk were toughened up with contrasting chokers or other ‘hard’ pieces of jewellery.
My favourite piece? Look 3’s monochrome oversized tuxedo vest with the eye-catching gold belt. Chunky accessories emphasised the volume ratio.
Lanvin
Graceful and elegant sum up Lanvin’s SS15 collection. First on the catwalk were long sleek dresses with asymmetric necklines or slits and thighs. The colours navy, black and white also added a tone of tranquility to the runway. Volume and draping were key in the designs, in the form of balloon or batwing sleeves and ruffled layering.
Then the hemlines were cropped and statement necklaces accompanied the clothes, to give a bit more of a modern twist to things but the cropped jackets, tuxedo vests and silk blazers all ensured that the looks stayed chic. The next wave of the runway signaled only one thing: party time. Stylish and sophisticated but with the right amount of edge. Lace and textured materials catered for the elusive party girl, whilst tunic dresses were patterned in metallics and vivid yellow and red prints.
My favourite? A terracotta sweeping maxi dress from Look 28.
Isabella Marant
It was bohemia meets the tribes as fringing, pleats and exotic patterns updated the usual hippie prints. Pieces were quite striking in monochrome and shades of maroon, burnt orange and red. Mini dresses seemed to be the popular clothing choice in this collection, with some top-and-trouser sets making appearances.
Everything was textured: tassels, fringing, feathers, pvc, wool.. The volume ratio neatened up the collection; pleated skirts were paired with fitted tops, whilst capri pants had thick knits layered over them. Marant’s usual hippie had definitely gone on her travels: it was a complete transportation. All the models donned different styles of gladiator flats; some contrasting with their outfits and others matching in block colour.
My favourite? Look 3’s monochrome tribal print halterneck, clinched in at the waist.
Givenchy
And North West makes yet another appearance at fashion week. This baby is living my dream and she can’t even walk. Controversy was caused as Kim and Kanye dressed the tot in a Givenchy black sheer dress but nevertheless, North seemed happy enough to watch Auntie Kendall strut down the runway.
Gothic. Tough. Sexy. Fierce dresses were complemented by thigh-high leather boots but the lace material, of certain skirts, was so delicate, that fairies could have made it. It was a world of contrasts, as the light lace was weighed down by clasping buckles and belts. There was a slight dominatrix feel, with the level and usage of pvc, leather and low-cut necklines but it was, in a way, dainty and feminine.
Bolero jackets and longer coats sat on top of the clothes, each with metallic and hard-edge designs. Mostly compiled of all-black, the collection did offer some softer shades of tan and one pink ruffled dress, all accompanied by the sexy thigh-high boots. It was all strong and sexy looks being showcased on the catwalk: all spray-tight fitted and leather-looking, so as to deliver the intended fierce and tough ambiance.
My favourite? Cara’s ruffled lace explosion dress and those boots in Look 56.
Elie Saab
Completely wild and exciting, this show was a blend of flowing fabrics, bohemia and futuristic prints. In an explosion of pattern and colour, this was one of the more fun collections at PFW. V-necklines and high-low hemlines kept things young, free and sexy, whilst there were also more demure outifts, such as high-necked skater dresses and jumpsuits. Lace was the material of the SS15 season, with black, white and blue maxi dresses being made entirely of it. Very ethereal stitching.
Ombre colours crayoned the floor-sweeping gowns, once again, at assorted lengths: asymmetric, high-low and with slits. Monochrome shades and block colours have been present throughout PFW, hinting profusely at key trends for the next season. Elie Saab finished on the runway with sequin detail added to both mini and maxi dresses, capes and tops. This collection certainly offered the different options a woman has for an event or special night out, with a variation of simpler and more extravagant choices, but all flourishing in beautiful, supple fabrics.
My favourite? The teal grecian dress in Look 28, which turns ever so slightly ombre-blue at the bottom.
Chanel
Karl Lagerfeld delivered a show like no other before: the Grand Palais was transformed into the streets of Paris as the models walked down the catwalk that was now ‘Boulevard Chanel’. The collection was chic and classy: an array of tweed suits, eccentric florals, flared trousers and structured boxy dresses.
Being Chanel, it was only fitting to have a few famous faces: Cara and Kendall were on the line up in a long tweed-esque suit and the quirky mosaic illusion dress, but so was Gisele, who donned one of Chanel’s classic cardigan dresses. The monochrome ruffled blouse and pinstripe shorts/skirts combination brought us back to Chanel’s roots and renowned designs, whilst also emphasising a key trend for SS15. The finale was made up of Karl leading the models in a mock demonstration, with protests and placards reading ‘Make fashion not war’, ‘Free freedom’ and ‘Be your own stylist’.
My favourite piece? Look 67’s voluminous ruffle-top shirt and pinstripe boy-shorts. Androgynous done right. It is Chanel after all…
Hermes
This season’s closing show. So before, Chanel took us the streets of Paris; now, Christophe Lemaire has whisked us off to the beach. Apparently it’s not a warm summer holiday we will be off to, however, as cashmere was amongst the first to be showcased on the runway. Ruched and layered designs were the key focus at Hermes. Cowl necks were a strong feature, as was the wrapped style, which gave the sense of warmth and protection. Odd choice for SS15 pieces, but who am I to complain?! The buttermilk coloured water snake dress was a popular and recognised part of this season’s collection.
Suede and leather were also key textures and materials used in the show, with pea coats, shirts and wrap dresses proving that more is more and length is here to stay. Apart from the obvious blacks, navies and greys, the tone of the collection was quite light, with nudes and taupes being the centre of the colour wheel for the designer. Crisp white shirts were tucked into caramel boyshorts, skirts had asymmetric wrapping detail and dresses were accessorised with knotted sashes. Hermes’ signature coloured scarves were absent from the runway, instead being the print for the dresses this season.
My favourite piece? The shiny black leather (look?) shirt tucked into charcoal capris with loafers. I think, with this outfit, everyone’s colour sight is going to strike a ‘is it navy/black/charcoal’ debate. Whatever shade it is, it’s a chic and minimalistic outfit.
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Thanks to anyone who has looked to my blog for reading up on fashion week.
A final disclaimer, the images are not mine, I do not take credit for them. Words only.
mymode101 